Archive for the ‘Autos’ Category
The simplest, most common, and least expensive upgrade is to change the brake pads and/or shoes. “For convenience, we’ll refer to these items as friction materials,” says Spiegel. “Remember, brakes operate by creating friction; if you can increase the friction, you can improve the stopping power.”
Typically, such pads cost from $40 to $90 per set. Given how well they perform, they’re a bargain. I’ve driven down steep mountain roads with a 5,000-pound trailer in tow and experienced no brake fade whatsoever. That’s a real comforting thought when you crest an 11,000-foot pass.
Technically, friction materials are rated by coefficient of friction (which is nothing more than a “grip” rating), resistance to weai and reaction to temperature. Different materials exhibit varying degrees of each of these properties. One property noticeable to any driver is “pedal feel.” Some materials deliver a smooth, linear feel when the brakes are applied; the truck seems to slow in proportion to the amount of pedal pressure applied. Other materials may feel grabby; at light pressure there is little braking power, but under heavier pressure they grab like all hell. Admittedly, pedal feel is highly subjective, but it definitely affects your comfort level as well as your ability to control the vehicle.
Autospecialty 911 Extreme Performance pads are one example of high-performance pads. They’re used in commercial and emergency vehicle fleets for good reason—because the pads offer great stopping power, fade resistance, and good wear characteristics.
Keep in mind that compromises are made when you upgrade pads. Some friction materials have great stopping power, but high wear rates, Others may create lots of brake dust, which means your wheels will get dirty more often. Some materials may not stop well until they are fully warmed up, and some may squeak. Here’s where a knowledgeable installer comes into the picture. He not only has the ability to help you select the best friction materials for your particular truck (and part of the country), but he can install them properly.
When the average outdoorsman thinks about enhancing the performance of his 4×4, he often focuses on accessories designed to make the engine perform better. In other words, more power. But for those who load their vehicles to carrying capacity drive in the mountains, or tow heavy trailers, it’s also a good idea to think about better ways to stop.
Factory brakes do a good job within the limits of their design, but sportsmen often push these brakes to the limit, and sometimes beyond. If you’ve ever experienced brake fade on a steep mountain pass or had a trailer push the truck past a stop sign, you know what I’m talking about. What can you do besides gritting your teeth and gripping the steering wheel?
To find out, I dropped by The Progress Group, a company that specializes in suspension and brake upgrades. The proprietors are a pair of trout-fishing fanatics, Jonathan Spiegel and Jeff Cheechov. “When most outdoorsmen decide to modify their truck or sport utilit the last things—if they give them any thought at all—are the brakesr says Spiegel. “This is unfortunate because many modifications directly affect braking system performance. Let me give you an example: The most popular modification is a set of new tires and wheels. Typically, the guy wants larger tires and wheels. Well, that adds weight, and extra weight makes the brakes work harder. And when they work harder, they produce more heat, and then we have a problem.”
“Brake pads and shoes are designed to operate properly over a broad range of temperatures says Cheechov. “But if the brakes get too hot, brake fade can occur. You’ll know it when it happens because the pedal starts to feel real finn, and no matter how hard you step on the pedal the truck doesn’t want to slow down. It’s a real white-knuckle feeling!” According to Spiegel and Cheechov, sportsmen who want to improve brake performance have three options:
1. Increase the friction between the brake pads and rotors (disc brakes) or the shoes and drums (drum brakes).
2. Improve the cooling ability of the brake rotors and drums.
3. Improve your ability to modulate the brakes.
When buying a new 4×4, keep in mind that you’re actually engaging in three distinct transactions: buying a new truck, financing it, and unloading the old truck. For best results, keep each transaction separate. Negotiate the price of the new vehicle flrst.That done, proceed to financing. (Big tip: Call your bank or credit union for their rates before you walk into the showroom. Armed with this information, you may be able to get dealer financing at a lower interest rate.) Finally, you can consider trading in your old truck, though you’ll usually do better if you sell it yourself.
A common ploy among salesmen is to mix these transactions. It’s a form of voodoo economics in which they take the trade-in, apply it to the down payment, and then offer a longer-term loan—all of which gives the appearance of lowering the purchase price of the new truck. Doing so makes you a three-time loser: You get less lbr the trade-in, pay more in interest on the loan, and spend more on the truck. The tactic works because most people look only at the monthly loan payment—the lower, the better.
Also be aware that the dealer cost (what the dealer paid for the truck), the manufacturer’s suggested list price, and the sticker price (which includes all special equipment, preparation charges, and other fees) are different. So when you talk “price” make sure you and the dealer are speaking the same language.